Wine Producers
Domaine Herbert-Roulin
Four generations in Gevrey, and a cellar that has not changed its mind since the second: hand harvest, partial whole-cluster, used oak only. The wines are dark-fruited and patient — nothing here is made for the first year of its life.
In the book: Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes · Chambolle-Musigny Les Fremières
Domaine Taupin
A small house working high-slope Morey and the serious southern sector of Nuits. Élevage is long and the domaine releases nothing it considers early — which is why the current vintage in the book is sometimes not the current vintage in Burgundy.
In the book: Morey-Saint-Denis En la Rue de Vergy · NSG 1er Cru Les Pruliers
Domaine Clémence Vardot
Clémence Vardot picks earlier than her neighbours and presses whole-cluster, chasing tension where the villages tend toward richness. The Vireuils is the introduction; the Folatières is the argument. Both are farmed organically, uncertified and unbothered.
In the book: Meursault Les Vireuils · Puligny 1er Cru Les Folatières
Domaine Sébastien Marle
A red house that learned whites from its children: the Volnay is the estate's signature — weightless fruit over chalk — and the Saint-Aubin, a stone's throw from Montrachet, is the best-value white in the book by some distance.
In the book: Volnay Clos des Angles · Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly
Domaine Perrin-Aubry
Old vines on Kimmeridgian marl, steel for the premier cru, old foudre for Les Clos, and a stubborn refusal to soften either. This is Chablis as a fixed point: saline, exact, and the first wine we recommend to a list that has everything.
In the book: Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre · Grand Cru Les Clos
Domaine Bellenoy
The youngest house in the book and the reason we keep visiting the Mâconnais: limestone-driven Chardonnay from Les Crays that pours generously by the glass without embarrassing the bottles above it on the list.
In the book: Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru Les Crays